Suspension Re-Valving and Setup
We don’t all ride the same bike at the same speed over the same terrain. Stock suspension is built for an average rider of an average weight, and very few of us are that rider.
At 266 Suspension in Bonaero Park, Kempton Park, George Wright tunes suspension to the rider. George has 10 years of experience in suspension fine-tuning and has been involved in motorsport racing for over thirty years.
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Signs your suspension isn’t set up for you
- Headshake or a nervous front end at speed
- Harsh over small bumps, yet still bottoming on big hits
- The rear wallows or the bike sits low in the stroke
- The front dives into ruts, or the bike won’t hold a line in corners
- You’ve changed weight, riding style or terrain, or moved from MX to enduro (or the other way)
Step one: springs and sag
Setting the correct spring rates is the first step in getting a bike right. Height, weight, skill and preference all play a part. Springs aren’t only about stiffer or softer. They hold the bike at the right height in its stroke, which keeps the steering geometry and handling correct. Headshake, harshness, wallowing, rut climbing or diving, and poor cornering are often the result of the wrong springs and poor chassis balance.
We check your sag, match spring rates to you, and set the bike’s balance front to rear.
Step two: re-valving
Springs hold the bike up. Valving controls how the suspension moves when it hits the terrain. Your bike’s stock valving may not suit your ability, the feel you like or where you ride.
We start with a rider interview: your weight, your skill, your bike, where you ride and what you don’t like about it now. Then we change the internal valving to give you the best balance of plushness and bottoming resistance. A fluid change is part of a re-valve, not an extra.
Step three: clickers
Once the springs and valving are right, the clickers (compression and rebound adjusters) become useful again. We give you a starting setting and explain what each adjuster does, so you can fine-tune at the track or on the trail.
What we do
- Rider interview to understand how and where you ride
- Spring rate check and recommendation for forks and shock
- Sag setting and front-to-rear balance
- Internal re-valving of forks and shock
- Fluid change as part of the re-valve
- Starting clicker settings, and how to adjust them
- Removal and refitting if you bring the whole bike in
Bikes and brands we work on
- Riding: motocross, enduro, adventure and trail, plus ATVs
- Suspension: Showa, KYB, WP, Öhlins and Sachs
- Bikes: KTM, Husqvarna, GasGas, Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki and Suzuki
Not sure if we do yours? WhatsApp us your make, model and year.
Re-valving and setup FAQ
Do I need a re-valve or just new springs?
Often the right springs fix a lot on their own. We’ll tell you honestly whether a re-valve will make a real difference for you. We don’t make problems sound bigger just to sell expensive solutions.
What should I tell you before a re-valve?
Your weight in riding gear, your bike, where you ride (MX track, enduro, trail or adventure), your level, and what you don’t like about the bike now.
What does it cost?
It depends on the bike, whether it’s the forks, the shock or both, and any springs needed. WhatsApp us your details for a quote.
Get your bike set up for you
WhatsApp or call 078 504 9478, email info@266.co.za, or visit us at 10 Schonefeld Avenue, Bonaero Park, Kempton Park. Tell us your bike, your weight and how you ride.
